Monday, April 26th, 2004
Click on the pictures below to see larger image!
I arise at the crack of 11am, 11am on a Monday morning! The beauty of being a senior in High School is that you are guaranteed at least one ditch day a year. Yesterday happened to be the day. As I glanced out the backyard I noticed some serious surf rolling in at Topanga, WooHoo! I head up to LaCosta beach club, where my grade is having a bbq. It is 12:30, the sun is out, its 80 degrees, and there is 6-8 foot surf. I head out with some buddies for some intense shorebreak boogie-boarding. After a couple hours of chilling with friends, I check the pager and see that its 16 at leo, good enough for me, so I hop in the car and head north.
As I drive down the hill I see one of the bigger waves I have ever seen at leo, it is biiggg. But light, unfortunately, only a few sailors out. No worries though, I notice two guys planing and realize that if they can plane, then for sure I can. I grab my '04 JP Freestyle 91 and Manic 5.7. Spencer, Debi, and Feo roll up a few minutes later, and Spencer figures it isn't worth going out. 
But that's ok, cuz he brought a camera! Picture time! I take off from the beach and head through the kelp, jibe on a set wave and head back in. My first wave wasn't that big, maybe 3 feet, but it was a clean ride, good solid fun. As I head back out, I see a bigger set rolling in. I charge hard for the lip and fly to the sky; landing not so clean but still good times. I repeat this pattern for the next hour and a half or so, with a smile from ear to ear. There were some smaller waves, and some larger ones, I usually manged to get pretty messed up on the sets, but overall I came in with only a few bruises. Jam home and hop in the jacuzzi to watch the sunset, all and all a pretty damn good ditch day.--Casey
